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Glue, Sprue, and BBQ, Mead, CO (2026)

08/26/2026

WIP – Tamiya 1/35 WW2 German RSO/01 Early

Here’s a quick update from the last couple of days. After the previous session, I applied a coat of VMS Varnish HD XXL Gloss and let it cure fully. Once dry, I added the kit’s decals — all four of them — using Micro Set and Micro Sol. They settled perfectly with no issues. Afterward, I sealed them with another layer of VMS Gloss, followed by VMS Satin to prep for the pin wash stage.

Pin washes were done with Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color – Brown (87132) across the surface details, with AK Interactive Afrika Korps Wash (AK066) added selectively for tonal variation. The tracks received AK Track Wash (AK083) to start building up the “well‑used” look I’m aiming for.

The cargo bed has its first round of dot filtering and some early oil/fuel staining. I’ll continue refining this area, and I do plan to add some cargo for visual interest — especially for when the canvas cover is removed or if a contest judge shines a flashlight through the rear windows.

More weathering to come soon.

08/22/2026

Everyone, please take a moment to check out the fantastic news from Tankraft about the company's new owner, JB - Closet Modeler 😀 They make fantastic products and the best protective mats for your workspace.

08/21/2026

WIP – Tamiya 1/35 WW2 German RSO/01 Early

This evening I primed the model using Mr. Mahogany Surfacer 1000 (SF290), which gave the build a uniform tone and, in my opinion, a softer base than black primer. A couple of small areas needed attention, so those were fixed, reprimed, and checked again.

To keep this project moving, I chose Option A — 1st Skijäger Division, Eastern Front 1944. It’s a straightforward overall Dunkelgelb scheme with a green canvas cargo cover. The base color is AK Real Colors Dunkelgelb RAL 7028 (RC859), while the canvas cover was painted Olivgrün RAL 6003 (RC852).

For shadows, I mixed Dunkelgelb Ausgabe 44 RAL 7028 (RC860) into the base color and applied it to the lower hull, road wheels, and undersides. Highlights were created by adding Elfenbein RAL 1001 (RC851) to the base color and sprayed on the cab roof, upper panels, cargo bed sides, and the centers of the wheels, sprockets, and idlers. This mix was also used inside the cab and the inner cargo bed areas.

The canvas cover received its own highlight pass by adding Buff (RC815) to the Olivgrün base. I masked sections to create subtle modulation on the flap covers, then added mottling to the raised folds for natural fading and depth.

Tracks were painted NATO Brown (RC887), followed by uneven layers of NATO Black (RC888) to let the primer and brown tones show through. With the initial painting complete, I’ll finish the evening with a coat of VMS Varnish HD XXL Gloss to prep for decals.

08/17/2026

WIP – Tamiya 1/35 WW2 German RSO/01 Early

Starting a fun “New Shiny” project — the kind that grabs your attention out of nowhere. I picked up this early‑release RSO/01 from the Squadron Hobbies booth at IPMS Nationals, and even though it’s not a subject I usually jump on, seeing it at the Tamiya booth made it impossible to pass up.

After a week in Michigan visiting family, I got home, cleaned the bench, and dove right in. The kit is classic Tamiya: excellent detail, beautifully balanced engineering, and a build that just flows. It took only 10.5 hours to assemble and get it ready for primer.

I built the cab, interior, cargo bed, and canvas cover so they’re all removable for detailed painting and weathering. The road wheels and tracks were done using the 'Uncle Night Shift' method, so they each lift off as a single unit. I also swapped the molded tool clamps for T‑Rex’s 3D‑printed Universal Tool Clamps (TR35134). A small upgrade, but it makes a big visual difference.

The kit includes a seated driver figure, which I plan to enhance with RADO Miniatures photoetch uniform details and a replacement Alpine or ARTO Productions head. Tamiya provides decals for the shoulder boards and belt buckle, but the RADO set is definitely next‑level.

Primer and paint coming soon — excited to see this one take shape.

08/05/2026

Here's an early look at the new Tamiya 1/35 German RSO release, this is a new tooled kit and is expected to be released in September.

However, Squadron has them already on sale here at the IPMS Nationals for $29.99 USD.

08/04/2026

Things are starting to come together for the vendor rooms and model display areas at the 2026 IPMS Nationals.

07/26/2026

Completed - Tamiya 1/35 German Infantry

I realized as I was preparing my models for the upcoming IPMS Nationals, that I hadn't actually taken pictures of the completed vignette. I wrapped up the bases by adding various ground clutter, grass tufts, and flowers to the base. I wanted to added some depth to the base so I made sure to use grass tufts that featured various sizes and heights.

Additionally, I did some further blending and painting of the faces to get them to a point where I am at least happy with the overall vignette. I will admit that it's not my best work but I am happy with the overall presentation and as a 'simple painting exercise' it turned out pretty good in my opinion :) I do intend to continue painting figures as an ongoing project, so up next are some H3 Models and Alpine Miniatures figures that I picked up at AMPS Nationals this year :)

07/20/2026

Complete – Tamiya 1/24 Nissan R34 GT‑R “Z‑tune”

Wrapped up the Tamiya R34 GT‑R “Z‑tune” this weekend, and I’m honestly ecstatic with how it turned out. I ended up redoing the front signal lights because they didn’t clear up as much as I wanted. I removed them, stripped the lenses in a Super Clean bath, and repainted them with Tamiya Clear Orange (LP‑53). For the second attempt, I used jewel crafter’s clear cement to attach the lenses, and they look far better now.

The window clear parts were masked using the pre‑cut masks plus extra Tamiya tape on the outside to prevent overspray. I airbrushed Tamiya Semi‑Gloss Black (LP‑5) on the inside, and when the tape came off, I had perfectly clean, bleed‑free window frames. The wipers were previously painted black and detailed with Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color – Light Gray (87189), then attached with jewel crafter’s cement. The full window assembly was secured to the inner shell using fast‑curing UV resin to keep everything locked in place.

With that done, the rear spoiler was permanently installed, and it was finally time to join the completed body to the finished underbody and interior. The last piece was the upgraded real aluminum exhaust, heat‑treated with a blowtorch for an authentic finish. I’ll add the front and rear number plates later once I decide between the kit decals or the raised photo‑etch versions.

Overall, this project was fun, surprisingly challenging, and a refreshing change of pace from my recent builds. I really enjoyed working with ProScale Paints once I figured out how to adjust my airbrushing for the dry Colorado climate. I’ve already ordered more for future automotive projects and a couple of Tamiya 1/12 motorcycles in my Bradley Hobbies collection.

Until next time…

07/18/2026

WIP Tamiya 1/24 Nissan R34 GT‑R “Z‑tune”

I’m rapidly approaching the end of this build — just need to finish painting the clear parts for the windows and add a few final details before full assembly. This week I prepped and painted the tail lights, signal lights, and headlight assemblies, then installed them on the body. The tail lights were done with Tamiya Clear Red (LP‑52), and the signal portion of the smaller light was painted with Tamiya Clear Orange (LP‑53). I used Tamiya Multipurpose Cement (Clear) (87188) to attach the parts, and once it cures over the next couple of days, the glue should dry perfectly clear.

I also added the photo‑etch screens to the front end after priming and painting them with Tamiya Semi‑Gloss Black (LP‑5). These small details really help bring the front fascia to life and give the Z‑Tune that crisp, realistic finish.

07/13/2026

WIP Tamiya 1/24 Nissan R34 GT‑R “Z‑tune”

After a week of curing in the drybooth, I started the finishing process on the body. The shell was wet‑sanded with 4k, 6k, 8k, and 10k GodHand sponges using distilled water with a drop of Dawn for lubrication. Most areas only needed 6k and above since the Tamiya LP Clear (LP‑9) settled almost perfectly with very minimal orange peel.

I used separate high‑plush microfiber cloths for each stage to avoid cross‑contamination. Once the sanding was done, I washed the shell in warm soapy water to remove any debris and let it dry in the booth for 20 minutes before polishing.

For polishing, I started with Tamiya Fine Compound (87069) and the Dspiae Fine ( ) pad, staying clear of edges to avoid burning through the clear. After wiping away residue, I repeated the process with Tamiya Finish Compound (87070) and the Dspiae Extra Fine ( ) pad. To clean out leftover compound from panel lines and crevices, I misted the body with clean water through the airbrush and gently wiped it down.

The model went back into the drybooth for another 20 minutes before masking the window frames and front air dam. These areas were airbrushed with Tamiya Semi‑Gloss Black (LP‑5), and after a few minutes of drying, I removed the masking. A couple tiny blemishes were cleaned up easily with a cotton bud moistened with MLT. Once cured, I applied Tamiya Panel Line Accent Color – Black (871313) to sharpen the panel lines across the body and rear spoiler.

Next up: masking and painting the clear parts with the pre‑cut masks, and prepping the photo‑etch screens for the front end. The build is coming together nicely, and I’m aiming to have it finished for IPMS Nationals in Ft. Wayne, IN.

Glue, Sprue, and BBQ

08/26/2026

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