01/15/2017
WORD PICTURES (Yeah - I don't know how to post real pictures, or virtual ones either): We've been getting a lot of winter here the past week-plus - creeping up on three feet in Gunnison (high desert), and over six feet up in the high country - great for us water people, but for us shoveling people, just...big.
But it reminded me of my first big winter in this valley - in 1966, when I lucked into a job on the Crested Butte Ski Patrol, but wasn't feeling particularly lucky about that when we were trying to get the ski area open in a four-foot onslaught of warm wet snow (with a couple hours of rain in the middle of it, just like last week) that was like skiing in wet cement. Even the real skiers were having trouble with it; I alternated between horror and disbelief.
I wrote about it, of course - in my first book, Part of a Winter. Here's the story of that pretty bad day excerpted from the book, for those of you with nothing better to do (otherwise why would you be looking at this page)....
A memory more like a dream. I have no trouble placing the memory: it was my first day of real work as a ski patrolman in Crested Butte, Colorado. A day more like a nightmare, that one was. The year was 1966, the month was early December, the day was a Monday, and it was one of the worst days of my life – nobody had told me a ski patrolman had to be able to ski with a shovel. Or a backpack full of armed explosive charges.
It was pure coincidence that had driven or drifted me to Crested Butte that winter. I had spent part of the winter previous – the winter after my discharge from the Army – mopping floors and hauling garbage in a restaurant up on Loveland Pass in exchange for room, board, and Loveland Ski Area skiing privileges. The summer following, I'd worked construction in Denver, but I'd decided I wanted to go back to the mountains for the winter.
But where to go, what to do? I'd wondered that summer in Denver, parboiling in my own sweat on the roof of another exclusive tract home, looking away toward the far floating mirage of the Continental Divide. I wasn't enthusiastic about the idea of another winter of mops and slops. I took a first-aid course, in order to be qualified for ski-patrol work – my first actual investment in the future since I'd left the Army, or the Army had left me.
According to the popular mythology of our times, you have no future if you have a bad military record; and several months of job-hunting in Pittsburgh had convinced me that, so far as employment in mainstream industrial America was concerned, that was pretty much the situation – not so much because of my Army record (I don’t recall anyone ever asking) as because I mostly lacked marketable mainstream industrial American skills.
Lowering my sights, I found that there was no particular shortage of futureless jobs – driving taxis, pounding nails on non-union jobs, pearl-diving, and the like. But there were scales and levels in that world too, and ski patrolling sounded like a better way to be futureless in the mountains than restaurant mops and slops.
My problem was finding a ski area that needed a patrolman with less than a year of semi-serious skiing experience. I of course wanted to go to Aspen for the winter, that mountain mecca of hedonism. I went up there and put my application for ski patrolman on the bottom of a stack of ski-patrol applications stored in a wastebasket; then, being realistic about my chances, I found a "backup" bussing job in a restaurant. The only affordable places to live were four-to-a-room bunkhouses. The more I looked at a winter in Aspen, the less it looked like what I'd had in mind. I wanted to go to the mountains, and going to Aspen had begun to look like just going to another city.
Nevertheless, I was more or less resigned to the idea until one morning back in Denver, getting ready to pack up for the move. Over coffee at the Super Chef Cafe, I saw a tiny item in the Rocky Mountain News: “Crested Butte Open for Winter.” A ski area in Crested Butte had just been “reorganized” financially after bankruptcy proceedings the day before, and it it was going to be open for the winter.
Open for the winter. I liked the sound of that. Aspen, Sun Valley, Squaw Valley, Vail, Stowe were all advertising open for the winter too in tasteful ads in magazines like The New Yorker, and had been so advertising all summer and fall. Crested Butte was only deciding to open at all a few weeks before winter.
But that wasn’t all that I read in that little story. Crested Butte Ski Area had been or maybe still was sort of bankrupt; and being there myself in a psychic way, I figured that was a good credential for truly being open for the winter.
I found the place on the map, and was there the next morning. Employed as a ski patrolman by lunchtime. Nobody even asked if I could actually ski.
I subsequently found out that I was hired for the Crested Butte Professional Ski Patrol so quickly and easily that year was because the Forest Service regs said you had to have seven ski-mounted bodies on duty every morning in order to turn on the lifts, and everyone at the ski area had been paid late and irregularly the previous spring, and a ski area just coming out of bankruptcy proceedings when most areas are already half-booked into March wasn’t anyone’s idea of a good place to work.
Today, if you want to work on the Crested Butte Ski Patrol you have to be a certified Emergency Medical Technician to even get invited to Patrol School, from which you have to graduate with honors to even get a chance to be considered, should there be an opening. But that year, all you had to do was show up. I didn't even own a pair of skis, just some leather boots – forty-pound tennis shoes – I’d bought on sale the winter before; I’d rented skis at Loveland.
Part of my trouble was not really knowing just how inept a skier I really was. The previous winter at Loveland Ski Area had been mild, and I had learned to negotiate familiar terrain on hardpacked snow reasonably well, although I wasn't as fast and quick as I needed to be on steep and mogully slopes. I had "skied powder" -about ten times, and never more than a foot, lying on a good base of hard snow on familiar slopes in clear weather.
So I was totally unprepared for what happened.
It didn't snow in time for a Thanksgiving opening that year, and it didn't snow the rest of November after Thanksgiving. A few days into December, faced with a succession of bland sunny skies, people were already starting to worry about Christmas, the fat season. Then, one Friday afternoon it clouded up, and started to snow in the evening.
It snowed all day Saturday, all night, and well into Sunday. Sunday afternoon it quit snowing and looked like it might break up, but that was just the eye of the storm; it started in again Sunday night, and was still snowing hard Monday morning; it snowed without letup all day – except for a period of rain late in the morning.
By Monday morning, there were three feet of heavy wet snow (remember that rain) on top of a few crusty and highly crystallized inches of old snow; avalanches were running everywhere. Six miles up the road in Gothic, where I would be spending the sixth winter hence, two monstrous avalanches wiped out a cabin and lifted a twenty-foot steel bridge out of its abutments, setting it fifty feet downstream unharmed. I didn't know it could snow like that. And it hadn't really occurred to me that ski patrolmen had to go out in s**t like that. A body could get killed!
But there we were. Work to be done. Saturday and Sunday I had been assigned to a packing crew. That was before they'd perfected the big flat-footed wide-track packing machines that most areas have now, and the only way to pack the snow down to a skiable base on the steeper slopes was to go to the top of the slope with a crew of fifteen or twenty people, and sidestep down the hill with skis on in a long diagonal line. The most boring and thighbusting work imaginable, and if it is snowing an inch an hour at thirty-five degrees, so that everything that hits a warm body melts instantly and soaks in to dilute the slippery sweat of strenuous exertion – try walking sideways down a mountain with skis on in three feet of slush – it is also the most miserable work imaginable.
But at least it was a job I could do, and I wasn't being exposed for the kind of a skier I was, or wasn't. I looked through the wet curtain of falling snow, down those slopes with their three feet of bottomless snow covering God knew what boulders, fallen trees, growing trees, willow tangles, ghost towns, fallen civilizations – I was glad they told me to walk down sideways. The idea of trying to ski in that scared me to death.
But by Monday we'd packed the first two feet of snow on all the slopes-not that you'd notice, with another foot or two on top of it-and it was time to get the area ready to open, in case a skier or two heard that the place wasn't bankrupt after all....
There were two major jobs that had to be done that day – and the fact that they took most of the day is an indication of how fast things don’t move when it's snowing like that. We had to do avalanche control work, and we had to put up all the trail signs and fence off all the dangerous areas.
For some reason, Bachman, the patrol leader, picked me along with a couple of other patrolmen to go with him on avalanche patrol. Perhaps he wanted to see how well I could ski. So we stayed back and watched – me with a sense of relief – the rest of the patrol pick up trail signs mounted on ten-foot 2x4s, or armloads of eight-foot bamboo poles, and slide off into the snow curtain, over the gentle cliffs they called ski trails there. Then Bachman called us back into the warm patrol shack, to make up the charges.
Charges? Yes: two or three pounds of seismographic powder (for the shock wave, rather than the power of dynamite) strung together with primer cord, plugged with a nitro cap crimped onto a forty-five-second fuse. Bachman put these charges in a couple of small backpacks and handed me one.
He wanted me to ski off into that slush with six pounds of blasting powder, all capped and fused and ready to blow up, on my back? The simple thought of that lowered my marginal abilities right down into the absolute zero of quivering total spasticity.
Fortunately some of the avalanche slopes were not too far from the top of the lift. I did a lot of fast traverse-and-kick-turn skiing, and met up with the others only a few minutes behind.
They were peering over a raggedy gash in the otherwise smooth contours at the top of a steep slope angling off one of the main runs: so sensitive were conditions that a big avalanche had broken off when Bachman had skied up and stopped; his motion had transmitted enough vibrations through the soft snow to trigger the slide. We looked, and gulped.
We skiied on a little further, to a small steep slope right on the edge of one of the trails – part of the trail, actually, but steep enough to slide under the right conditions. I say it was a "small slope" – only big enough to bury a person in five or six feet of snow if he happened to get caught in it. I have always privately called that little piece of trail "Sibley's Exposure."
Because it was in the skiable part of the area, Bachman didn't want to use powder and blow a big black hole in the nice white snow, so he used it as an exercise in teaching us how to "ski off" an avalanche. To ski off an avalanche, you simply ski across the slope high up in its convex tension area, as quickly as possible, using your weight to cause it to break away under you and slide off below. "And whatever you do," boomed Bachman, "don't fall down!"
He skiied across first, to show us what he meant: nothing happened. "Okay," he said, "it's probably okay but let's all ski it just to get the idea." I was next. I pushed off onto the slope. "Faster!" he yelled. I fell down. My head downhill. My six pounds of powder didn't go off. But there I was, upside down, head below my feet, in the middle of an avalanche slope. The only way I could get up was to do a sort of a somersault to get my feet below my head again. By the time I was standing up, I was almost to the bottom of the steep part; the slope was virtually "body-packed."
"I guess we'll call that one controlled," said Bachman, skiing off.
After avalanche patrol, I spent the rest of the day helping with trail signs. Wrestling up barricades with bamboo poles and tangles of rope. The day was a soggy nightmare; words hardly suffice for describing it. I was ill-equipped: I was using a pair of rented skis that were camber-sprung and half-destroyed, and equipped with cable bindings, which, no matter how much I tightened them, popped open in that heavy snow at the most embarrassing points of the awkward turns I was trying to crank with a sort of a timid high-stepping stem turn. Going into those turns, I probably looked like a bashful dog trying to zero in on a skittery hydrant.
In my own defense, I have to note that I wasn't the only one having trouble that day. I saw some falls, in fact, that were downright cheering to me: misery loves company. But even in good company, misery is still misery.
The ski area was officially opened at noon: there were some hardy skiers from town and the college in Gunnison just champing at the bit. That meant we would have to sweep the mountain at four-thirty –although in my case, the idea of me being responsible for getting skiers off the mountain was laughable: anyone who actually wanted to ski on a day like that should have been helping me off the mountain. But the sweep run did have one enticement: after a day of thrashing around with twelve-foot 2x4s and jackstraw-loads of bamboo poles, we would get to ski one run with our ski poles, like God meant skiers to ski.
But even as we were all getting our skis on at the top of the mountain at the dark end of the afternoon – snow still falling in thick soft windless curtains – the patrol phone rang. Bachman went back in to answer it ... and came out shaking his head. The packing machine – a semi-useless snowcat designed for linemen in the arctic traversing six-inches of wind-crusted snow – had slipped off into a ditch down in the flats where the trails converged.
"Everybody grab a shovel."
And that brings me to that moment in the gray-on-gray dusk, that memory more like a dream, in which I find myself squatting for the umpteenth time that day in the usual tangle of skis poles cables gloves shovel and slush, finally tired almost beyond anger, looking into what might be called the Ultimate Alternative.
Over the past decade I've known two people who have gone over that edge and into that most silent of nights. Just lay down in the snow and went to sleep, both of them. The nap that opens up like a doorway between this and the same thing on the other side, only once you go through, the doorway disappears and there's no way back to this side.
Or so I might theorize. Those who have been dragged back from that edge in the nick of time, pulled away by friends into a warm place, slapped and rubbed and cajoled back to life, indicate that it probably wouldn't be a bad way to go. So long as you fight it, you are cold and miserable, soggy with simultaneous sweat and chills. But if you just decide to let go, or to continue letting go, if you decide you just don't care any longer if you are ever warm again – then suddenly you begin to feel warm, as your body, committed to live life to the last bitter calorie, sends out the vital heat in a last piss-in-the-ocean effort against the pervasive omnipotent cold. Hypothermia, and the last memory before going to sleep is of finally, finally, being warm.
But I guess I was still too angry at that point, if only with myself, to get that cold. So I reassembled myself once more, picked myself up from the umpteenth ridiculous fall and put myself and my skis back together, found my shovel, and made my way on to where the others as soggy and wornout and pi**ed as I was were working – shadows against the gathering night, lumpy and out-of-focus with dampness and tiredness, but still capable (as, I discovered, was I) of the casual curse and the laugh that must have struck the storm, with its love of intense silence, as blasphemous.