02/16/2026
*******STREET STOCK WELD
General Driver Rules & Expectations:
1. ALL RULES MUST BE FOLLOWED OR YOU WILL NOT RUN
2. Drivers must wear a seat belt, helmet, fire suit jacket and long pants while participating.
3. ALL drivers must attend the drivers meeting.
4. During event you are given 1 minute to make an aggressive hit or will be disqualified.
5. You MUST run a roof sign.
6. Drivers are not allowed to drink alcohol before they participate. If found with alcohol in system you
will not run, no exceptions. ZERO TOLERANCE RULE!!!
THIS IS NOT A SET OF RULES BUT A SET OF GUIDELINES OF HOW TO BUILD YOUR CAR. IF IT DOESN’T
SAY YOU CAN SPECIFICALLY DO SOMETHING THEN YOU CAN’T!
Car Preparation:
NO PAINTING OR UNDERCOATING OF THE FRAME. NO BUFFING OR GRIDING FRAMES OR BODIES
EXCEPT WHERE WELDING IS SPECIFICIALLY ALLOWED IN THESE RULES. NO PAINTING IN THE INSIDE OF
THE BODY OR CAR. IF THIS IS DONE THE CAR WILL NOT BE INSPECTED.
1. Any American make car can run with the following exceptions: NO 1970 or older Lincolns and NO 1973 or older Chrysler Imperials or Imperial sub-frames, 4x4, ambulance, hearses, trucks, limousines, frames or full cars etc. NO 03 & Newer FOMOCO allowed. You cannot put a wagon body on a sedan frame, and you cannot put a sedan body on wagon frame. No manipulating a wagon’s roof to create a sedan on a fresh car. You cannot cut the roof off at any time for safety reasons.
2. All cars must be stock unless modification is specifically stated in these rules.
3. All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior must be removed from car before arriving to the derby.
4. All trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
5. Batteries must be moved to the passenger floorboard and properly secured/covered.
6. All cars must have working brakes when you cross the hoist. If the car is not able to exhibit the ability to stop it will not be inspected.
7. NO welding other than what is mentioned in this set of rules. If your car is found with any weld, other than what is allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction, you and your car will not run.
Frame
Bumper:
Bumpers are interchangeable. Any automotive bumper may be used on any car, but no more than one set of bumper brackets may be used. Bumper brackets may be from any car that is legal to run in your class and on only one side of the frame. Bumper brackets must be one of the two following methods.
First way – factory bumper bracket that is legal to a car in your class may not extend any further back than the first 14” of the frame. You can weld bumper brackets to the frame (single pass only). The bumper may be built to have a 14" point from the farthest pony back from the back side of the bumper to the point. However the point itself may be no more than factory Chrysler pointy itself and spanning over 36" span across the bumper. (Will have a cut out template to follow). They may be 8" tall
unless loading an unaltered factory skin. Replica bumpers are allowed. You can weld bumper brackets and shocks to the bumper. You can weld shocks to shock brackets. You can collapse shocks, and you can bolt the shocks to the towers with ½” bolt or less, and it must be done vertically. All brackets must touch the bumper and cannot be cut apart to lengthen.
OR
Second way - INSTEAD of using bumper brackets you are allowed to use ONE 4” wide x 3/8” thick plate extending from your bumper down either a side, or the top, or bottom of the frame choose only one cannot wrap a corner with it and cannot be any longer 14”. You are also allowed to wrap this strap around the front of the frame 4” to create an “L” shape. This is to give you enough material to weld your bumper to the strap. Plate may be reconfigured but must stay only 4” wide max. Do not bend plate past 90 degrees when you reconfigure the plate. Plate may be welded on either side of the frame or the top or bottom, your choice. Do not abuse this rule YOU WILL CUT. You may reinforce bumpers on the inside of the bumper. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Welding the bumper skins (chrome to inner liner) is allowed. Weld them solid, we do not want them coming off. Bumper height not to exceed 22” to the bottom of the bumper to the ground and must be a minimum of 14” from the ground to the bottom of the bumper or frame. Bumpers must be in
stock location. The bumper must be completely in front of the frame rails. No part of the bumper may extend back past the front most part of the frame rails 3 Front and rear bumpers may have 4 loops of wire from radiator support/trunk lid or deck (to sheet metal only do not go around core support bolts) to bumper (not frame). These cannot be placed in front of the radiator. The bumper may be built up to have a 14” point from the farthest point from the back side of the bumper to the point over a 36” span and 8” tall. Rear Bumper Brackets must follow the front bracket rule, no longer than 14” on the frame. Wagons do not weld the bumpers to the body.
Rear Bumper: The only way you can weld bumper to frame is if it came from factory with brackets to the frame. Brackets must follow the front bracket rule, no more than 14” on the frame. If the brackets are mounted to body only they have to stay to the body. Bumper has to stay with those brackets. Do not move bumper to the frame. You may weld brackets to body. Bumper can weld to brackets and the body. Bumper welding to body is 5” on 5” off etc, you can use 3” x 5” x 1/8” strap to weld bumper to body.
Frame Shortening:
You may shorten the front frame on a FoMoCo or GM on the front frame only. You may cut the frame off flush with the front edge of the body mount hole. If it is a weld on mount leave the remaining portion of the body mount in place. If you remove the body mount completely or relocate it you will not run. 76 and older Cadillacs must measure 18 inches from the back of the bumper to the front of the spring pocket.
Frame Welding
A total of 14” of welding allowed behind the a-arms. All welds must be marked with orange paint. This will allow the FoMo Cars to cut and tip the box and reweld with 14” of weld and the old iron cars to reweld the seams where the factory missed or any other factory welded seam. Do not weld the front frame or box to the side rail.
Only factory welded seams may be rewelded. If you choose to cold bend the car do not support with the cross member. These are the only ways to bend a fresh car.
Rust Repair – Call before fixing any rust on the frame.
Frame Shaping – NO frame shaping is allowed.
Front Suspension:
Tie Rods and Ball Joints – Aftermarket tie rods allowed (no “Big Chiefs”) with stock size ball joints. Do not re-engineer the way the steering components mount to the frame. Only stock size car replacement ball joints and tie rod ends are allowed, no pickup or van tie rod ends.
A-Arms - A-arms may be welded or bolted down with up to a 5/8” bolt but may not be reinforced. If welded, it may only use up to 2- 2x4x1/8” thick strap per a arm. This strap must weld to the a-frame and cannot extend farther forward or backward than 1” past the widest part of the a-frame. No changing or modifying the a-arm brackets. COIL SPRINGS must be a factory car coil spring for a car that is permitted to run in this class.
Steering box – May be interchanged but must remain a stock box for a car that is legal in the class you are running. Pitman arms must remain stock or stock replacement
Idler Arm – Idler arm must remain stock or interchanged for an idler arm for that is off a car that is legal in the class you are running.
Hubs – Must remain stock for the spindle you are using no aftermarket hubs or rotors. Brake calipers must remain stock for the stock spindles
Spindles – must be stock for a car that is legal in the class you are running, with no modifications.
Rear Suspension:
Leaf springs must be stock and made of stock spring material, with a 1” stagger and no springs can be as long as the main leaf. You can only have a total of 9 leaf springs per side no thicker than 3/8" thick and no wider than 2 ¾” wide. The main leaf must be the top spring in the spring pack and leaf springs mustgo down from longest to shortest in minimum 1” stagger. You can clamp springs, 6 homemade clamps per side. Homemade clamps can’t exceed 2x4x1/4”. Eyelets must be in factory location of the car you are running. 2” arch one direction from center of eyelet to eyelet.
You can change coil springs to a stiffer spring to get your height, do not raise the suspension any other way. You can bolt, wire, or chain coil springs to rear-end and frame to prevent springs from falling out, do not go through body as this would be another body mount. You may weld leaf spring mounting brackets to prevent them from becoming unbolted (single bead no wider than ½”). You can loop chain or wire (1 loop of 3/8” chain or 4 loops of #9 wires) from rear end to frame in 1 spot on each side, must go around frame, do not bolt the chain to the frame. Max chain link size 3 ¼” OD. You may use a 1” bolt or all thread from your rear end housing to the package tray. You may use both the chain and the 1” bolt to help hold rear end in car. You cannot leaf spring a factory coil spring car.
WATTS LINK CONVERSIONS
• They must bolt to package tray with 4 – ½” diam. Bolts No welding of the upper brackets to package tray.
• The upper brackets can be no thicker than 3/8” and must be at least 1” away from frame rail.
• The upper trailing arms must angle off the factory mounting point on the rear end and mount to package tray in the factory mounting location of the car you are running 98 – 02 fords mount the same way as a 97 and older ford.
• Lower frame brackets may be ¼” X 3” X 3” box tubing 3” long welded to side of frame (not to top or bottom of frame in any way) where the factory brackets are located.
• All unused brackets must be removed from frame.
• No gussets may be used on these lower brackets.
Trailing arms: Both upper and lower must be a factory non loaded trailing arm. Must use a factory trailing arm for a car approved for this class. May shorten or lengthen with 2-inch overlap, NO added metal.
Rear- Ends:
-Use rear end of choice, nothing heavier than an 8 lug rear end. - You can tilt rear end if you wish.
-Welded or posi-track highly recommended.
- Back braces are welcome. Braces may not extend more than 4 ½” on the outer 10” of a stock size axle tube or 10” on the remaining housing.
- No changing out rear package trays on frame. - You must use the factory brackets that came with the car you are running. No relocating brackets on the frame.
-Rear end control arms can be reinforced. They must start from a stock set but can be reinforced. They must attach in stock configuration for the suspension setup you are using. No Hybrid Setups.
Tires:
Tires no bigger than 16 inches, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires are ok. Valve stem protectors are ok. Tires may be screwed to rims. Wheel reinforcement is allowed as long as the wheel starts with a stock wheel, and the reinforcement stays within the factory bead. No bead locks in this class.
Motor:
-Use motor of choice, motor must be in stock location.
-Distributor Protectors are NOT allowed.
-Mid Plates are NOT allowed.
-Lower Cradles are allowed but must attached to a factory style engine mount, with rubber bushing, attached to frame. The factory engine mounts are the only way of tying the motor down. -NO Distributor cap protectors or Full cradles!! YOU are allowed a front lower cradle and pulley protector if the sway bar is removed.
-Header Protectors are allowed, Piece of 4X4 ¼” welded around header ONLY and cannot connect to anything.
Transmission Brace, Bell Housing & Plate:
You may run a transmission brace with the following guidelines:
1. Transmission brace must follow the contour of the transmission and never extend more than 2 inches off the case.
2. Transmission brace may only be attached to the engine by the bell housing bolts. Nothing to the heads, spacer plate, or underneath.
3. You may run a steel bell and tail with the brace.
4. Transmission must have 3 inches of unobstructed slide before "locking " in. No bolting, welding, or chaining to hold the transmission tight.
5. Transmission tunnel must be slit length ways the distance of the transmission if running a brace.
6. Trans mount area may be up to 12 inches wide, but has to maintain the 3 inches of slide throughout
-You may run an aftermarket bell housing, but no other modifications may be done to the transmission. You are allowed 1 loop of 3/8” chain to the cross member with one link welded per side or bolt it down with 2 – 5/8” bolts with 1.5” washers using the factory holes in the factory tail shaft cone.
-May run a bell housing spacer if you have a short bell. May only be attached thru the bell housing bolts. Must stay below the heads and a maximum of 2 inches wider than the bell housing itself and not allowed to come in contact with the sheet metal or cage at any time.
Transmission Cross Member:
-You must use a factory cross member for mounting transmission. This can be out of another car legal for this class, but only if you are not running tr**ny brace. If running a brace, see option below.
OR
- If you are running a tr**ny brace you must use a straight piece of 2x2x1/4” tubing, no contours and must be mounted in the stock location on the transmission.
NO HOMEMADE TR**NY CROSS MEMBERS!!
-Tr**ny cross members must mount in factory location for the car only and may use (2)- 2x2x1/4” x 6” long angle iron to set cross member on.
-The transmission cross member must be one piece and must be straight from side to side. The transmission cross member is the only method which the transmission may be tied in.
BODY
Body Shaping:
Body may be shaped on the exterior sheet metal only. No body shaping inside the passenger compartment, inside the truck, or inside the engine compartment at all.
Rust Repair: You can patch rust holes in sheet metal with sheet metal ONLY. Do not cut rust out; weld 2” beyond rust. If your frame is rusted through, CALL for instructions on how to fix the rust hole. DO NOT FIX IT WITHOUT CALLING AND EXPECT US TO ALLOW YOU RUN IT. If you have to restub your frame do so under the front doors but do not support the splice with cross member. NO 03’ and newer rear frames attached to an 02’ an older front frame.
#9 Wire:
-You are allowed 2 spots per window (4 Loops)
-You may run wire from frame rail underneath back of car, behind rear end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain or cable. This may go around the frame, it may go through a factory frame hole, or you can weld 1 – 3/8 chain link to the side of the frame to run the wire through, but do not reinforce the frame with the chain link or you will cut it off. This wire may pass through the trunk floor if you choose.
Radiators:
For mounting radiators you may use (4)- ½” all thread. This may pass through the bottom of the core support. This must not pass through the upper core support. It may be attached to a 2”x6” 1/8” flat steel and must be welded to the core support they must be outside the fan. NO radiator guards allowed
Body Mounts:
Body mount bolts can be replaced with 3/4” bolts and can only be 8-inches long, body mounts can be replaced with steel or washers but must be 1” thick and have the same diameter as stock spacers. Bolts may extend through body and have up to a 4x4x ¼” washer on top, washers must be separate and cannot reinforce the frame. Bolts must be up inside of the frame with up to a 2x3x ¼” washer. If you choose to use a body mount hole for your hood ready bolt this does not have to be up inside frame, the plate can go on the bottom side of the frame and be no larger than 3”. if you choose to leave in the stock rubber pucks you must leave the metal cones inside the rubber puck. You must leave at least a ¾ space if using the factory rubber spacer. Do not devise a way that enables you to suck them down tight. Radiator support mounts can be removed, and you can suck the radiator support down solid. Absolutely no body mounts may be moved or added, do not shorten the front of your car and move back past the body mount hole as your car will not run. If you have to build core support spacers you may no weld it to the body or the frame mount. Core Support Spacers cannot exceed 2” square material. The front frame
must not be shortened to far that the 1” all thread must pass through the factory stamped hole. The all thread may only be welded to the side of the frame in this location. Chrysler K-Member cannot be altered.
Hood & Front Clip:
-Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in case of fire. Any holes in hood may be bolted back together with 3/8” or less bolts and 1.25” diameter washer no more than a total of 6 bolts allowed to pinch the hood sheet metal back together. You may cut multiple holes but do not exceed the 6 bolts. You are allowed 8 spots to hold the hood on; you must have a minimum of 4 tie down spots. You may have up to 1” all-thread, it may go from the hood to the frame, but must go through the front body mounts, this may be welded to the frame after it passes through the body mount but may not be nutted underneath the body mount if it is welded. All other tie down spots must be sheet metal to sheet metal only, and the hold down bolts cannot exceed 8” in length! All hood bolts must be placed outside the windshield bars.
- You may have plates for hood tie down, not to exceed 5x5x1/4” square or 6” x1/4” round.
- Front core support cannot be moved back from its factory location. It must stay bolted to the fenders the same way that it came factory.
- You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. Fenders may be bolted back together with 5 -3/8” bolts or less with 1.25” diameter washers. No rolling your fenders and welding them. If you wrap or fold your fenders around the front of the core support do not exceed 4 – 3/8” bolts with 1.25” washers to bolt back to the core support of fender.
Windshield Bar & Firewall:
Firewall- DO NOT ALTER FIREWALL!!! Besides what is mandatory in these rules!!
Window Bar- For safety, all cars must have (2) windshield bars extending from the roof of the car to the firewall/dash, straps cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” flat strap. If and only if you remove the firewall/dash completely between the straps you can connect these 2 bars. The removed part must be completely removed and must be as wide as the vertical bars. The horizontal bars connecting the two vertical bars cannot be any larger than 3/8”x3” straps. No more than 6” of strap material is allowed on the roof and no more than 6” of strap material allowed on the firewall. Do not go over 6” on roof or firewall or you will cut. Window bars cannot go more than 6 inches past the window opening. Must be at least 14 inches apart at the firewall.
Doors
-You may weld your doors solid with nothing larger than 3” by 1/8” strap and must follow the door seam. Do not overlap strap or you will cut the strap off. You may fold tops of doors over and weld the outer skin and inner skin together, but you are not allowed to add any material. If you chose not to weld, they must be tied shut in six locations using ½” bolts no longer than 6”, 3/8 Chain, or #9 wire. If we do not deem the car safe to compete you will add more fastening points.
-You are allowed to add bracing to the exterior side of the driver’s door. This bracing must not stick any further out than 2” from the door and may not have any sharp edges. You are also allowed to carry the bracing up to 3” past the exterior door seam either forward or backward.
Cage
All cage material must be no larger than 6” od, unless specified for specific rule smaller. It must be a minimum of 4” off the floor everywhere except the down legs going straight down that includes being 4” off of the transmission/tunnel. No cage material may be within 6” of the firewall and any part of the engine or components and be minimum of 4” off the transmission tunnel which cannot be altered. You may weld a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, it can be an X do not connect directly to frame, and you may also have a single bar (with no extensions), across your dash area to replace you dash. You may run a bar connecting the dash bar and seat bar inside of the front doors only. You may weld two down bars from the cage to the frame vertically or to the floor to protect batteries and your feet. These down bars must remain behind the inside door seem and may only be welded to the top side of the frame. These bars cannot not exceed 2”x3”. You must have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded to the floor or frame and may be welded or bolted to the roof. You may also weld a steering column to the cage. Side bars including roll over may be a max length of 62 inches long. Mopar’s are allowed to run a 1” bolt with a 5" plate on both sides (frame and body) in the front most frame hole in the rear frame. You are then allowed to weld a kicker from the door bar and weld to the top of this plate. It can be a maximum of 2x3” square tubing. All Mopar cage material must be 5” forward from the center of this body mount hole other than the kicker explained prior. Some Mopar’s have a very tight passenger compartment and you may need to run the halo through the small back window, mainly Cordoba’s, call first.
Gas Tank Protector - You must run a gas tank protector. It cannot attach to anything other than your cage. It must be centered between your frame humps. It cannot exceed 24” wide. It can angle in from our roll over protection. It must be a full 3” away from rear sheet metal, which cannot be removed. The bracing must be 4” above all floor sheet metal, which cannot be removed, measured from the highest flat area of the floor in the rear seat area.
Fuel Tank, Oil Coolers, & Transmission Coolers:
Original gas tanks must be removed. You must use a boat tank or well-made fuel cell, and it must be properly secured and covered. Only metal tanks may be used. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place fuel cell behind driver’s seat or in the center of the car where the back seat use to be. No other source of gas inside the car at all. Engine coolers are allowed. These coolers cannot be placed to reinforce the car. No bolts may extend through the frame to create a body mount.
Trunks
-You may weld your trunk lid shut in 6 spots using up to 3” 5”x1/8” strap on the factory seam -You can fold hoods or trunk lid over. Do not slide your hood or trunk forward or back, trunk must remain on hinges. Trunk lids must be stock shape but may be folded in but keep it clean.
-(2) 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame or trunk pan, if it passes through a body mount hole you must have a 1” spacer between the body and frame.
-GM Wagons must remove all rear decking and seat components. All other rules above must be followed.
03 & Newer Rules:
1. Must use factory rack & pinon, no steering box conversions.
2. Must run the factory aluminum cradle, NO added metal.
3. May use aftermarket tie rods.
4. Struts, spindles and a arm’s may be switched to a direct bolt on. No cutting, welding, and fabbing to make it work.
5. Engine Mounting, you may use a cradle like Grey Area or Budde cradle or you can grab your own. Still must use a stock style rubber mount. The cradles are allowed to attach with one bolt through each aluminum tower, no other attachment points and must remain ½ inch off the side rail. Repair plates may not be used to tie cradles into the rails.
6. Watts link conversions are allowed, look in watts link conversion section above.
7. Must follow all other rules, any questions call before assuming it will be OK!!!!!
THIS IS NOT A SET OF RULES BUT A SET OF GUIDELINES OF HOW TO BUILD YOUR CAR. IF IT DOESN’T SAY YOU CAN SPECIFICALLY DO SOMETHING THEN YOU CANT. JUDGES DECISION IS FINAL!!!
Repair Plate Rule:
You are allowed three 6” x 6” x 1/8” plates per frame rail
Blizzard Bash or Carnage cars- Officials will work with you on rules if it's a street stock build.
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