08/06/2022
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In the exhibit Process | Persona, I share a retrospective look at the process of dyeing leather using rusted metal.
I initially learned about leather arts while living in Masaya, Nicaragua. Masaya is the cradle of folklore and heart of artisan life. There are people making things everywhere you look, using methods passed on from multiple generations. I was fortunate to live there for four years and learn with artisans who took me under there wings. A line of experimentation called AVE () came out of my experiences collaborating with artisans.
In an effort to reduce waste, I was interested in using local existing resources like vegetable tanned leather, “vaqueta” and materials that were destined for the landfill or the scrap pile, like tire rubber, dead-stock textiles to make clothing, shoes, bags and other goods.
I remember observing where a buckle left a black mark on a leather sandal strap. I was curious about that effect. I gathered up scraps of rusted metal and leather and began experimenting. It’s a mesmerizing process to watch patterns emerge in black contrasting with lighter tones of the leather.
Veg-tanned leather is cured using natural tannins from tree bark, roots, and leaves. The tannins react to the iron in rust (iron oxide) and turn black. The process of iron dyes can also be applied to plant based materials. Iron based pigments have been used as early as humans were painting on caves.