Silver Mountain Forge

Silver Mountain Forge Museum Quality Reproduction Medieval Armor - SCA Spec. Fighting Armor

Work by Laurel Armorer Chevalier Baschamp-Paul Montargent

Silver Mountain Forge

3 of a Kind


Ponte Alto Fight Practice 2/23/17 Featuring: Syr Cunian (Karen Morrison), Kea Erisdottir, Sir Joanthas and Chevalier Baschamp-Paul Montargent (Lessley Paul Silberberg) (Finally cleared by Nuerosurgeon to participate again.) Video courtesy of Viscountess Kathryn Courtney Montargent (Kathy Silberberg)


SCA Fight Practice at Ponte Alto 9/15/2016 - Syr Ragnar Ribcrakcer, Lady Arianna, Sir John, Brynn, Sir Cunnian, Old Chavalier BP and others. Please tag yourselves and correct spelling - Video by Viscountess Kathryn Courtney Montargent.

SCA Ponte Alto Fight Practice 09/08/2016

Lady (Ariadne) Kea Erisdottir Getting her licks in - on the Old Chevalier (Baschamp-Paul Montargent) Lessley Paul Silberberg, with Bryn Tannahill and Rickart in Falls Church, VA.
Video by Viscountess (Kathryn Courtney Montargent) Kathy Silberberg

The Maiden Voyage of the New Armor

The Maiden Voyage of the New 17-7 PH Spring Stainless Armor.
Witness how a 195 lb. 62 yr. old man, in 90 degree heat, high humidity and no breeze, and with no practice for 9 months, can move - in a properly engineered and fitted 16 th century full "Cap-a-Pie" (head to toe) armor.
Filmed by Kathy Silberberg on an iPhone. 3 Min.


I was building myself a pair of articulated sollerets. I made them to fit to my fighting shoes. Oddly enough, when I put the shoes on my feet, they took on a totally different shape than I had made my Sollerets. Gotta go back and refit them.


Has anyone successfully welded 17-7 PH stainless steel?
I have tried TIG DC-negative and TIG DC-positive. Both have failed.
I even tried TIG AC, which is used for aluminum, hoping that would let the 17-7, with the high aluminum content, let the metal flow together.
The 17-7 seems to ”skin over” and the molten areas do not flow together. It seems to sit in molten globules that will not fuse.
Then it just collapses.
Any help woud be appreciated.


17-7 Stainless Steel update

As much as I loathe learning from trial and error, here are some updates:

Between “upside-down” raising and sinking, I was able to make a much deeper curved bowl for elbows and knees. Yay!

Made a cuisse (Thigh front and back) with a fully functional knee and wing plate.

The last time I fired the kiln was with only one relay. The temperature made it to 1900 degrees, but even though the indicator on the relay showed it was cutting off correctly, the coils still were powered on and the temperature continued to rise. I had to manually switch off the 220v. I could switch the 220v on again and the coils would stay off until the temperature dropped enough to kick the relay back on. Lather, rinse and repeat.

I tried to correct the kiln coil to work properly by reinstalling the second relay on the other side of the 220v, but it pifffed.

Took the second relay back out, fired the kiln, got the same deal with the relay seeming to kick off, but the coil staying on. I was back to switching it on and off manually again, to maintain the temp.

Then, I was getting a little warm, so I turned on my shop cooling fan. Purely by accident, because I was sitting near the relay, I discovered that the relay was “slightly” overheating and not fully kicking off – even though the indicator light was going off. The fan, adding additional cooling to the relay, made it immediately start kicking the coil on and off the way it was supposed to work. Sheesh!

With the kiln now working as it should, I ran the full hardening process on the thigh and vambrace I’d made. It worked as advertised.

I could bang on the pieces, they flexed slightly and sprang back to shape, didn’t bend or crack. Yippee!

I made these pieces out of the .025” (23.5 Gauge). I put the thigh on and started whacking it with a rattan sword. I didn’t feel the exact location impact of the blow, however, my entire thigh buzzed so much, it was like being stung by 1000 bees! It hurt like hell!

I am once again confused. I was not expecting this!

Should I start with a heavier gauge .032” (20.5 Gauge) or even .04” (18.5 Gauge)?

What am I missing here?


17-7 PH Stainless Steel

I received my 1st samples of the 17-7 PH spring stainless steel. At 23 gauge, it seemed only a bit thicker than galvanized duct work. I figured "Oh! I'll just cut this with my metal snips." Unh-uh! They wouldn't touch it. It was too tough. I had to use my electric sheet metal shears I use on 14 gauge mild steel.

I decided to start with a knee, figuring that would be a good test of its workability. I worked it for and hour and a half. In the 1st half hour, it moved as far as it would go without annealing. It took me the following hour working it to realize this.

The work-hardened half domed knee is as hard as a rock on the bowed area.

Because of the tensile strength of the material, I had to counter the "bottle-cap" effect after each moving bend of the plate. So I raised, straightened out edges, rinsed and repeated.
Its about half way to being a knee - No welds (see photos).

I ordered the digital controller conversion kit for the Kiln, and can't anneal anything until I get it and figure out how to hook it up. I'll update after that.

Going to pick this up on Tuesday.

Going to pick this up on Tuesday.

3 of a Kind

3 of a Kind


Ashburn, VA


Be the first to know and let us send you an email when Silver Mountain Forge posts news and promotions. Your email address will not be used for any other purpose, and you can unsubscribe at any time.

Contact the business

Send a message to Silver Mountain Forge:


Nearby arts & entertainment

Other Arts & Entertainment in Ashburn

Show All