01/05/2023
Today is May Day when sacrifices would have been carried out at Yeavering, now an empty-seeming field on the edge of the Cheviots in Northumberland.
Long ago, this was the site of a great palace complex boasting huge timber halls straight out of ‘Beowulf’, a unique twenty-foot-tall grandstand, a possible pagan temple, and a cattle corral with workshops, including a weaving shed, uncovered at nearby Lanton Quarry.
The seventh-century royal estate of Ad Gefrin (Yeavering) has now been brought back to life through the newly-opened Anglo-Saxon Museum and Whisky Distillery in nearby Wooler. The venue serves as a portal allowing the visitor to step back into those lost halls mentioned by Bede as the seat of Edwin and later kings.
An important centre from ancient times, the original Ad Gefrin probably served as a place of ritual assembly where disputes were resolved, petitions heard, news exchanged, cattle counted, and religious rites celebrated.
The royal settlement lay under the protective shadow of Yeavering Bell, site of the county’s largest Iron Age hillfort, and a major tribal base of the Old North. More than 80ft long and almost 40ft wide, the main hall would have been a piece of carpentry to rival Noah’s ark. The palace’s whereabouts was discovered by chance by an aerial photographer in 1949 after a drought picked out the cropmarks, heralding one of the greatest British finds of the twentieth century.
The grandstand, like the segment of a Roman amphitheatre, tapered down to a stage and could have accommodated more than three hundred people. Viewed from overhead, it looked like the wireless internet icon, and it may indeed have been the focal point of a social network in the pre-digital age. But its exact purpose is obscure. Was it an open-air parliament for the king to address the people and consult his counsellors on important matters of state? Was it an example of architectural grandstanding from a king who fancied himself as heir to the Roman emperors; or a lecture theatre used by missionaries to preach?
An ancient barrow was re-used as a burial ground in the seventh century and may have been surmounted with a goat-headed totem pole, and later perhaps by a high cross. Ad Gefrin is Brythonic for ‘Hill of Goats’. These animals were also sacred to the early English, with place names in the north such as Gateshead (‘goat’s head’) providing evidence of sites where rituals were celebrated around posts with animal heads.
A burial discovered here may be that of a seventh-century shaman or priest, though all that remained of him is a stain in the soil. He had been buried on the threshold of a hall with a goat’s skull placed over his legs and a seven-foot bronze-bound ceremonial staff, again possibly crested with the emblem of a goat.
Whether he was Christian or pagan is unclear, though such distinctions were probably less meaningful than we believe today. King Rædwald was said to have served both the gods of his ancestors and the God of the new religion, having in the same temple an altar for the Christian sacrifice, and another upon which he offered victims to “devils”. ['Ecclesiastical History' II.15] Pope Gregory had initially ordered the destruction of pagan shrines in Britain but, a month later, he appears to have changed his mind. Writing in a letter of 601, he cautioned his missionaries not to destroy heathen temples but to re-consecrate them (‘Ecclesiastical History’ I.30), deducing that people would be more amendable to persuasion if their holy places were not burned to the ground.
Cattle would have been driven to Yeavering from far and wide on May Day, with a portion of the region’s yield going to support the royal household. Some of the herd appears to have been sacrificed in the temple where piles of ox skulls were discovered in pits. Gregory describes similar practices in his letter to his missionaries, cited by Bede:
“And because they are in the habit of slaughtering much cattle as sacrifices to devils, some solemnity ought to be given in exchange for this. So on the day of the dedication or the festivals of the holy martyrs, whose relics are deposited there, let them make themselves huts from the branches of trees around the churches which have been converted out of shrines, and let them celebrate the solemnity with religious feasts. Do not let them sacrifice animals to the devil, but let them slaughter animals for their own food to the praise of God, and let them give thanks to the Giver of all things for His bountiful provision.” (‘Ecclesiastical History’ I.30)
There were also strong links between cattle, sacrifice and ritual used to reinforce the position of kings, with evidence for pole-axed skulls, and cattle also found at Irish royal sites such as Lagore and Moynagh Lough in County Meath. May Day or Beltane was the traditional date when cattle renders were collected across Britain and Ireland, and if Aidan did not personally preside over these slaughters (alongside the Eucharistic sacrifice), one can imagine him blessing the herds as the druids had before him.
Special bonfires, believed to have been protective, were kindled during Beltane, with 'druids' driving the cattle between them. ‘The Carmina Gadelica’, a compilation of Scottish Gaelic poems and prayers gathered between 1860 and 1909 by folklorist Alexander Carmichael, contains the The Beltane Blessing which mentions the pagan festival in the same breath as the Trinity. Adomnán recounts that Saint Columba blessed a poor man who had shown him hospitality, resulting in his five cows miraculously increasing to 105, a legacy perhaps of the idea that holy men had powers over the fertility of land and animals.
Certainly, Aidan of Lindisfarne, the first Bishop of Lindisfarne, eschewed fire and brimstone preaching, looking instead for common ground, and adopting a more pragmatic approach:
“… as he walked along, whenever he saw people whether rich or poor, he might at once approach them and, if they were unbelievers, invite them to accept the mystery of faith; or, if they were believers, that he might strengthen them in faith, urging them by word or deed to practise almsgiving and good works.” (‘Ecclesiastical History’ III.5)
He is thought to have had a church and cell here which he used as a base to preach to the more remote communities. But because Yeavering has a British name and lays inland from the coastal areas heavily settled by the English, it probably had a strong native population, many of whom may already have been Christian.
It has even been suggested that the semi-legendary warrior Arthur launched his military campaign against English from this area. The Glen, which flows through Yeavering, has a similar name to a river mentioned in the ‘Historia Brittonum’ (‘The History of the Britons’) as the setting for Arthur’s first battle with the “Saxons”. But this seven-mile tributary of the Till is more famous as the place where Edwin’s missionary Paulinus performed mass baptisms in 627AD.
However, Ray Simpson, writing in 'Aidan’s Way of Mission', has described the earlier evangelising project as a “firework display”, arguing that many had accepted only the outward forms of the faith. It would take Aidan to succeed where his predecessor had failed. He was better-placed culturally to engage with the people than members of the earlier mission, familiar as he would have been with places like Newgrange and Kilmartin Glen. Aidan would have experienced less discomfort with the concept of sacred continuity than the likes of Paulinus, an Italian missionary of the patrician stamp.
All images John Connell taken in the Ad Gefrin
The Man Who Gave His Horse to a Beggar
https://www.amazon.com/Man-Who-Gave-Horse-Beggar/dp/1527251071