05/02/2026
Too busy in Rome, enjoying Rome, to post. Here’s ‘Day 3, pt 2’ now I’m back home (1-11 from Vatican Museums/Sistine Chapel). . .
1. ‘Gallery of Maps’: 40 large, fresco Italian maps, c.1580
2. Raphael, ‘School of Athens’, 1508. Surrounded by Euclid, Averroes, Pythagoras, etc., Plato and Aristotle walk towards an opposite mural depicting a victorious Christianity. Raphael didn’t complete the last 2 of 4 rooms as, on the night of his 37th birthday, weakened by pneumonia, he passed out during s*x (source: Vasari). Too embarrassed to admit it to physicians his mistress called, they treated him for something else – which killed him!
3–5. Giogio Morandi, 1959 drawing and ‘Still Life’, 1957. Things and the observed relations between them, painted with such presence, yet remaining like half-remembered memories of things. Then – a brave acquisition! – Francis Bacon, ‘Study for a Pope I’, 1961.
6–8. half of Michelangelo’s great, High Renaissance ‘Last Judgement’ (1535–41) was under bloody scaffolding! Disappointing – as I was looking forward to the portrait of his enemy, Master of Ceremonies da Cesesna, depicted in Hell with donkey’s ears and a snake biting off his privates, bottom right!). Great job of the ceiling (1508–12) though!
9. Before Julius II got Michelangelo to redo the ceiling, it was decorated with the popular blue background and stars – as around this doorway, given an added trompe-l’oeil curtain effect.
10. On leaving, this fabulous, unlabelled Roman relic – a drinking trough or sarcophagus (?) with mask – beautifully placed.
11–12. Before the day ended (and Campari called!) we had to get to Santa Maria della Vittoria for Bernini’s ‘Ecstasy of St Teresa’ (1652), depicting the 16th nun’s description of her ‘ecstatic’ meeting with an angel – Teresa describing him ‘piercing her very entrails’ with his spear and the look on her face suggests something a bit more worldly than spiritual!
13–15. On the way to that Campari, San Carlo alle Quattre Fontane, designed by Francesco Borromini. I liked the spaces, ceiling and this staircase (which I guess doesn’t get photographed too often!). This is lovely, flowing, unusually ‘minimalist’ Baroque.