21/03/2026
This mixture of a cycle ride and walk was my own attempt to pay homage to the genius of Emily Bronte, including as it does, a pilgrimage to Top Withens. This house, now ruined, was reputedly used by Emily Bronte as the focus of her novel ‘Wuthering Heights’.
It lies high on the barren and and treeless moors on the Lancashire and Yorkshire border, where it is given to wild weather and high winds, hence the name ‘Wutherring’ being a significant provincial adjective of atmospheric tumult, as the narrator, Lockwood, put it in the book.
Good weather would be a bonus, and so this classic sunny winter day gave me an
invitation I could not decline. With bags packed and sandwiches made I set off along the lonely road to Hebden Bridge. I was soon on the tops above Colne, where I live, past the reservoir at Widdop, overlooked by a jutting rock face. Half a mile further along the Pennine Way crooses over and forks up the hillside towards Haworth and all places north.
This footpath is one whose scenic attractions have attracted thousands of walkers (including me forty years ago) since its creation in 1965. Many must have a penchant for masochism owing to the repetitive slogging through the peat bogs that characterise much of its length.
There are occasional stretches along a tarmac road which provide a brief respite. I was now on one of those, which leads to a trio of reservoirs built by a Irish navvies in the 19 th century. I had planned to ride that far before folding my bike up and sliding it into the backpack I had brought with me to carry it across the moor.
That was the plan, but the driver of the 4x4 that suddenly appeared next to me had other ideas. ‘Yah can’t soickle dahn this rowde’ he roared at me. ‘ Yer’ll ‘ave ter go dahn ther’ , he said, referring to the track that leads to Hebden Bridge. Going ‘dahn ther’ would not go to Top Withens, so it was time to put my bike in its bag and carry it. This was agreeable to him, but I was not expert in doing this and something hard and pointed, the end of a fork or an axle, kept prodding me in the
back; periodic wriggles eased discomfort to some extent.
The reservoirs were now well below me and the view stretched for miles in each direction. It was a landscape of moor and heather, devoid of people, their pettiness and preoccupations, and an area given over, instead, to burbling curlews and buzzing lapwings, the embodiments of the
liberating wilderness. If I looked the other way I could now see the silhouette of the ruin of Top Withens across the plateau. So this was where Catherine and Heathcliff wandered endlessly over the moors. This is where their identities found such a unity that they could never be separated. This is where Mr Lockwood found the books where Catherine had described the tyranny of her brother his roof. This
is where Heathcliff took his revenge and where love between them took its spiritual course.
Before long I had reached it, and thankfully eased myself free of the weight on my back, shrugging the soreness from my shoulders. This was my chance of a few minutes rest and I sat on a wall that could have been the remains of the stable where Hindley hit Heathcliff when they were children and threw at him the iron weights used to weigh potatoes and hay.
I bit into my sandwiches, imagining the scene, years later, when Heathcliff, now
Hindley’s merciless creditor, viciously disarmed him when the latter threatened to kill him. Surely this place could not have been such a residence as described in the pages that Emma wrote. Now it had nothing of the massive character that the book suggests with deeply set windows and jutting stones. It had more the look of a modest ruined cottage. Putting oneself in Emily Bronte’s place, however, it is an ideal spur for the imagination. Miles away from anywhere else, isolated in a
wilderness and separate from society, it fitted her inspiration to write a romantic tale like no other. Still preoccupied by my musings but with lunch eaten, it was time to get going again. As I was shouldering my unwieldy baggage a fell runner appeared around the corner of the building, bringing me back to the present day with his light-hearted banter about jogging around the ‘tops’ as well as
his bemused reaction to the load on my back. Off he loped, who knows, possibly repeating Catherine’s own steps, as she went in search of Heathcliff on that terrible night when he disappeared.
The path set off down a hillocky grassy slope towards a rocky span that has come to be known as Bronte Bridge, where a peaty stream burbles down from the fells before descending to the valley below. Playful shadows danced among the rocks. It was a pleasant spot to sit and survey the scene. The other significant dwelling in ‘Wuthering Heights’ is Thrushcross Grange’, which is thought to be the present day Ponden Hall. I had at least another mile of scrambling and plodding from Bronte Bridge, along a rough stony track before reaching the road from Haworth to Colne.
I could now put the bike to its proper use and, relieved, cycled through the village of Stanbury before reaching the left turn that took me past another reservoir towards a steep rise that led to Ponden Hall. It is a fine house and that evening was dappled with shadows from the lofty ash tree that has grown at one corner.
Was that the very window that Catherine and Heathcliff looked through when they first saw Edgar and Isabel fighting over their miserable pet dog? Was it here, years later, where Catherine, grief stricken by her separation from Heathcliff, her true love, finally died?
Fascinated at the enchantment lent to these stones and mortar by Emily Bronte’s
invention, I did my sketch, enjoying my imaginative recreation. Then I turned for home, soon reaching the moor-top with evening sunlight flooding the landscape and picking out the whaleback silhouette of Pendle Hill in the background.