09/12/2022
The human side of Madagascar.
Have you ever gone on a trip that changes how you think? That strikes a chord that lingers in your consciousnes? That makes you question perceived truths?
That was Madagascar for me.
I went to photograph wildlife. It had been on my bucket list for over 20 years, since I first met my friend Steve and helped him found . His commitment to endangered wildlife, reignited my youthful desire to see it in the wild.
I didn't really do much research before I left. I knew Madagascar was a poor country -- it seems like all of the ones with the most interesting, and endangered, wildlife are. I knew not to drink the water & to take precautions with food. And I knew some of our (high-end) lodging would have limited electricity & internet.
But when I got there I was struck by the degree of poverty. Our guide said it was the 4th poorest country in the world (some lists put it closer to 10). Over 75% of its population (80% of children) lives in poverty, with rural areas (where 80% of the population lives) the most impacted. Even in the cities, some people live in homes that are little more than shanties. (Interestingly, there is little to no homelessness.)
The country has some of the worst infrastructure I've encountered, with major highways unpaved or in utter disrepair, often barely drivable. Only half the country has access to clean water (and therefore, proper sanitation). In rural areas, people (predominantly girls & women) might walk miles for water, food, basic necessities.
These glimpses of people's lives stuck me and left me really contemplating my privilege. We complained about the lack of air conditioning to ward off the high heat & humidity while locals lacked basic necessities. We left meals unfinished while they lacked food. We paid less than $20 for porters to carry expensive camera gear.
I asked our guide if the people are happy. He said it's complicated. Their lives are difficult, but they find happiness in their family, in things like their harvests.
I look around at all this "stuff" I own. I think about the food, time & money I regularly waste. And to what end? Does it make me happy, fulfilled?
