17/06/2026
I’ve met this guy a bunch of times.
Different days.Different waves.
Different people around him. But always…
Same miserable energy.
It didn’t matter how good the conditions were…
Or who he was talking to.
Nothing seemed good enough.
Meanwhile, I was stoked just watching the waves.
Let alone being in them.
Going through an ACL injury taught me to appreciate the simple stuff.
Movement.
The ocean.
The chance to participate.
Because better conditions don’t automatically create a better mindset.
At some point…
You realise your environment doesn’t control your mental state.
You do.
Gratitude is a choice.
Perspective is a choice.
And most days…
So is happiness.
