30/09/2026
😋🦞
Lobster Turnovers - A Nova Scotia Recipe From 1902
We tend to think of a turnover as something filled with apples, blueberries or maybe mincemeat. But apparently, in Nova Scotia in 1902, somebody was putting lobster in them.
While digging through the old recipe collection at the Nova Scotia Archives, I came across a recipe with the wonderfully straightforward name. Lobster Turnover.
No fancy French title. No attempt to make it sound elegant. Just lobster, in pastry. And the archival record dates it to September 17, 1902, in a collection of recipes attributed to Geraldine Uniacke.
By the late 1800s, Nova Scotia's lobster industry had already expanded dramatically. Canneries were operating around the province, and lobster had gone from being principally a very local, highly perishable food to something that could be processed and shipped to distant markets. A Nova Scotia Museum history notes that lobster canning was established in the province by the 1870s, including a cannery on Pictou Island.
The really interesting part is what these old turnovers probably tasted like. An early-20th-century recipe for Lobster Turnover published elsewhere calls for cooked lobster to be chopped and seasoned with cayenne pepper, lemon juice and just a “suspicion of mace.” The lobster was then mixed with a thick white sauce and a few drops of anchovy essence, spooned onto rounds of short pastry, folded over, sealed and baked.
Anchovy essence sounds peculiar today, but it was common in old fish cookery. It wasn't intended to make everything taste like anchovies. Used sparingly, it supplied that salty, savoury depth we would now call umami.
Old-Fashioned Nova Scotia Lobster Turnovers
Filling
2 cups cooked Nova Scotia lobster meat, roughly chopped
2 tbsp butter
2 tbsp flour
¾ cup milk
½ tsp salt, or to taste
Pinch of cayenne
Tiny pinch of ground mace
1-2 tsp fresh lemon juice
¼ tsp anchovy paste or a few drops Worcestershire sauce, optional
Freshly ground pepper
Pastry
Pastry for a double-crust 9-inch pie, homemade or prepared
1 egg beaten with 1 tbsp water, for brushing
Melt the butter in a small saucepan, then stir in the flour and cook for about one minute without browning. Gradually whisk in the milk and cook until you have a fairly thick white sauce. You don't want it runny, the filling has to stay inside the pastry. Season with salt, pepper, cayenne and that all-important suspicion of mace. Stir in the lemon juice and, if you're using it, the anchovy paste or Worcestershire. Fold in the lobster and remove from the heat.
Now, taste it. The lobster should still be the star. If the sauce is shouting louder than the lobster, we've gone too far. Cool the filling completely.
Roll the pastry about ⅛ inch thick and cut into roughly 5-inch circles. Place a generous spoonful of lobster filling on one half of each circle, leaving the edge clear. Moisten the edge lightly with water, fold the pastry over to make a half moon and press the edges firmly together. Crimp with a fork. Cut a tiny steam vent in each turnover and brush lightly with the beaten egg.
Bake at 400°F for about 18 to 22 minutes, until beautifully golden. Let them sit for five or ten minutes before eating because that creamy lobster filling will be approximately the temperature of the surface of the sun. And that's it. Lobster Turnovers.
Has anybody ever heard of lobster turnovers before? And if a plate of these came out of the oven, are you taking one?