01/17/2022
Food is comfort, yes, but food is also political. What we eat โ and how we eat โ has the ability to interrogate local food systems, inform us of the histories of foodways that have existed for decades or centuries, and answer long-held questions about how and what weโve come to be. โฃ
Here are six unsung heroes of the Black culinary past:โฃ
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Butlerโs cooking and baking is representative of a blend of many influences, particularly regional ingredients and Southwestern cooking techniques. โฃ
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โฃA catering pioneer in her own right, North Carolina native Cleo Johns created a lasting legacy in the Northeast. Her business, Cleoโs La Cuisine, routinely catered to up to seven events a day with anywhere from 30 to 4,000 people. โฃ
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โฃHer frosted plum cake is what earned her the everlasting title of โPastry Queen of Rhode Island,โ as the story goes. โฃ
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โฃOften credited with being the connoisseur of cooking turtles, Cuffy Cockroach was known for cooking turtle soup in Newport, Rhode Island, a long way from his home in the Guinea Coast. โฃ
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โฃThe story, life and culinary achievements of Daisy McAfee Bonner exist in the same plane as countless other free and enslaved African Americans who have quietly cooked for presidents for decades.
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โฃOn 5th Avenue North near Nashvilleโs Art District in Tennessee, thereโs a historical marker memorializing the legacy of Sarah Estell, who was a free Black woman and culinary entrepreneur. Ice cream was Estellโs claim to fame. Between the 1840s and the 1860s, when ice became widely available on the east coast thanks to new trade routes opening up, Estell used the new resource to her advantage.
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