02/05/2022
Built mini car rules 2022 {YNW same rules}
Basic rules
• Any front wheel drive car with a wheel base no bigger then 110in. Any rear wheel drive car with no bigger then a 107 in wheel base.
• No 4WD vehicles.
• Motor swaps are allowed but no added material to make that swap possible (read cradle rules in frame section). NO CRADLE SWAPS
• Car must be clean of trash, bumper covers and head lights and tail lights (bulbs included) must be removed as well. This will be enforced this year especially all outside body parts.
• You may run a shifter, gas or brake pedals and oil/trans cooler. (No added strength to the body and frame or it will be removed)
• Drivers must have valid drivers license or be 16 with parents signature.
• Must have helmet and eye protection
• PLEASE TAKE TIME to secure your gas tank and battery, if you can’t then you will not run.
• No car will be ran thats leaking fuel!!!!
• You must run a seat belt.
• Judges decisions are final
We would really like to see drivers in fore suites or atleast the fire jackets, cheap way to save your life.
Cage
• You can have a 4 point cage, door bars are to be no bigger then 2x8, front and rear bars no bigger then 4x4 and tank protector nothing excessive.
• Your door bars must be no further back then 10 inches from the door post, that goes for the back seat bar as well.
• Tank protector is to be no wider then 28 inches. You may have a upright on each side of it with two bars going directly forward covering the sides of the tank (don’t get crazy with these or they will be cut out)No it cannot go into the trunk area, it must be a minimum of 3 inches away from the rear window bar fresh or pre ran it doesn’t matter.
• NO KICKERS OR DOWNLEGS ANYWHERE!! Don not use your steering column or battery box as one either so pay attention when your building it.
• Door bars, dash bar, rear bar and tank protector must be 4 inches away from and floor pan or anything to strengthen the car. The only thing that can be against the sheetmetal the the back of the tank protector. Don’t not weld, bolt or pin it to anything.
• If your batteries, steering column, trans cooler or anything acts as a kicker/pin/ gusset it will be removed.
• Roll bar must go straight up and over. You may bolt it with 2- ½ bolts to the roof only, no bigger then a 4x4 plate for those mounting spots no bigger then 2x6 on the roll bar.
Body
• You may crease any outer panel on the body but NO WEDGE CARS! Pre bending is ok but don’t get crazy!
• Doors and trunk can be welded every 6 inches and then skip 6 inches 3x1/8 material but the drivers door can be welded solid and a door plate if desired. Door plate can overlap the front fender and rear door 3 inches and is to be no thicker then 3/16 material. (scared of getting hit in the door im giving you permission to plate the entire door)!
• 1 - 10x10 hole must be cut in the trunk lid if we cant see in it.
• To mount the hood you can have 4 - 3 inch long pieces of 2x2 angle welded to the fenders with a ½ bolt through it to hold the hood down.if you’d rather use bolts you can have 6 locations with ⅝ bolts holding it down. IT MUST be a factory mini car hood. 10 ⅜ bolts max in the hood.
• Windshield bar is to big no bigger then 2x2 tubing or 3 inch 3/8 flat bar. It may not be used as any kind of kicker or lock anything it to the cage or it will be cut out.
• Rear bar can be 2x2 1/4 tubing or 3 inch wide 3/8 flat bar it cannot go to the roll bar no matter how you do it or try to configure it.4 inches welded to the roof, it has to go at the rear window area in the center of the car. No cutting a hole in the roof and running it through there. It also must mount at the speaker deck trunk lid area in the center of the car. You may have a 5x5 ¼ plate for it to set on and weld to. If you cut the speaker deck out and move the trunk back it still doesn’t matter, has to be where the factory location is. If it isnt it will be removed!! Keep it away from the tank protector as well. Must be a 2 inch gap between.
• You can have a center bar for shifter or accessories but it must meet the same rules as all other cage componuts.
• No wire, straps, cable or anything from cage to body. Absolutely no self taping screws in the body or frame, or bolts, or rivets nothing.
Frame/Bumpers
• No frame creasing or frame manipulating, sub frame as well. Don’t fill in holes, don’t crease a frame then add weld.
• You may have 4 - 3x4 patch plates anywhere you want them, any way you want them but cannot be used as a kicker or to tie into the cage in any way.
• You may cut the crush point out of the car, car can but cut back to the core support but no further DO NOT ALTER / BUILD OR RE-ENFORCE the core support . If it’s junk I need pics but it will be very minimal on what material you may use to repair it with.
• No seam welding of any kind on the frame or body
• Rust repair i must get detailed pictures and it will be minimal.
• At your core support you can change that body mount out with 3/4 allthread that can go through the hood and bumper shock if you choose for it to.
• You may have a 10 inch bumper shock no bigger then 2x2 square tubing or round stock, it can be on the inside or outside or the frame just no bigger the 10 inches! 1 piece, 1 way but don’t not try to do both or it’s automatic DQ.
• No pins or plating the frame or it will be a AUTOMATIC DQ!
• You may have a piece of tubing 2x2 NO BIGGER THEN 2 inches welded to th side of the frame for your strut to rest on HOWEVER no patch plate can touch this piece of tubing. It must be atleast 2 inches away or ill be removed completly!!
• If you choose to run the factory shock it must be for that year, make and model car. You can only weld the first 10 inches of it, no bolting it either.
• Remember your bumper shock starts at the back of your bumper!!!
• I will add bumper pictures to better explain how it needs to be built.
• You may re bolt the front sub frame bolts using 3/4 all thread, go up through the core support and use as a hood mount. No tubing involved, only allthread.
• FRONT bumpers are to be no bigger then 4x8 tubing and no smaller then 4x4 and have no bigger then a 8 inch point measuring from the back side and with a 30 inch spread . The ends must be capped and no sharp points. DEC,Burton,smith style bumpers are all ok.Must be square tubing. Brian’s machine shop, Dixon, Amish and factory Chrysler pointy bumpers will not be allowed this year on any small car. The Brian’s machine replica 74 and 76 Chevy bumpers are ok though. Come with too much of a point and it will have to be cut.
• REAR bumpers you can have a piece of tubing no smaller then 2x4 3/16 and no bigger then 4x6 3/16 if its smaller or bigger dont waste yur time it will be cut off! Cap the ends and make sure it’s not a safety concern, THIS WILL BE HIGHLY CHECKED!!!
• Bumpers can have a 5x5 ¼ mounting pad welded to the end of the frame for the bumper to be welded to.
Suspension / Drivetrain
• You may run home made struts
• Any wheel and tire combo / if running foam filled and it becomes a issue you may have to have disqualified.
• You may re-enforce your tie rods
• Leaf spring cars must run factory leafs and factory shackles and clamps. If rusted or broken I need pics.
• You may run a braced rear end but no solid axles, the rear end brace must be 4 inches away from any body or frame component.(fresh or pre ran)
• you may re enforce your trailing arms, no bigger then 2x2 and must not strengthen the car in any way. You cannot run one solid piece of tubing across the back to act as a straight axle. Needs to have a gap like the solid ones would. This is to help you, so don’t abuse it or you will loose it.
• If your running a rear wheel drive you may run solid shocks in the rear for ride height. 3/4 inch allthread is fine.
• Only RWD cars can have a piece of 2x2 - 3 inches long welded to the bottom of the frame to mount the sway bar. Sway bar can be bolted solid to the lower a-frame NOT WELDED! (If you push the sizes you will cut).
• Only RWD cars can have a lower cradle and pulley pro, it must have a 2 inch gap before the derby starts and cannot be altered or anything added at the derby or it will be a automatic DQ! Lower cradle cannot be no wider then the engine block, no back plates, steel bells or anything like that LOWER CRADLE AND PP only! Cradle cannot add strength to the frame in any way! If the pulley protector is tied into the sway bar one will have to be removed.
• Engine mounts can be aftermarket no bigger then 3x3 pads for RWD and no bigger then 2x2 tubing for the FWD cars. If its made to strengthen the car it will be cut off.
• You may convert and car to carb
• Header protectors are ok but must not connect to anything else such as factory strut bars or anything else.
• Radiators must remain in factory location, no added coolers.
