07/02/2024
The morning hastily commenced, ushered onto a boat of 90 other people by a tour guide who exuded a demeanour reminiscent of a ‘not angry but disappointed’ father from the movies. After devouring a few cold fries and some limp noodles, breathtaking rock formations emerged outside the window like curious giants. I scrambled out of my chair and quickly clambered to the top of the boat to peer at the scenery in awe. I was finally in Halong Bay.
The boat continued its journey along the bay, whilst I ran around with a camera, eager to capture every angle until we reached our next destination. Here we were bundled onto traditional boats - alongside hundreds of others from different ships. Unfortunately this place is very popular, but can I fault for having the same dream as me?
The little boat ventured into a cave and into a lagoon, where we encountered a group of lively elderly people. They were singing their hearts out, swaying with such ferocity I feared they would tip their boat. Their energy was contagious and soon it spread to the other boats and quickly the lagoon and caves were full of interlapping voices and tunes bouncing off the cliffs. Also within the lagoon, were copious amounts of kayaks. The occupants were unable to master the ability to move or steer in a straight line resulting in them smashing into each other whilst frantically trying to dodge the bigger boats.
Afterwards, we headed through Sung Sot Cave. I was pleasantly surprised by the grandeur of the cave, in awe of its vastness and the shadows cast by the lanterns. The cave’s ceilings and walls resembled art, with patterns covering every surface, crafted by the brush of erosion and time. However, it is possible my appreciation is biased by the power of suggestion - as my tour guide was rather heavy-handed with his laser pointer - “You see, this is a dragon, this is a monkey and this is another dragon…..”
Unfortunately, we eventually had to head back to Hanoi - I watched the sun go down revelling in the memories of the day and settled back on the bus to eat ever more dried mangos filled with both satisfaction and longing.