Garrett Santiago

horse lover

10/05/2026

Polling the Willow, Osier Cutting and Peeling — rural work for men and women
H. R. Robertson (1875). Polling the willow, osier cutting, and peeling constituted significant rural occupations for both men and women, as documented by H. R. Robertson in 1875. The extensive industrial applications of the willow, including its close relatives, the sallow and osier, were meticulously detailed by the esteemed John Evelyn.
He observed that "all kinds of basket-work," a craft for which even early Britons garnered admiration in ancient Rome, were fashioned from willow. Evelyn further enumerated its diverse uses, noting its wood was employed for pill-boxes, cart saddle-trees, gun-stocks, and half-pikes; for harrows, shoemakers’ lasts, heels, and clogs; and for agricultural implements such as forks, rake teeth, perches, rafters, ladders, hop poles, and bean stakes.
Additionally, it served in the creation of hurdles, sieves, lattices, platters, small casks, pales, baskets, trays, trenchers, and boards for sharpening table knives. Evelyn even referenced its use by painters for "scriblets," likely referring to charcoal for sketching, a product for which willow wood remains optimal today.
Willow has historically been valued in environments where water and human endeavor intersect. It found application in the floats of paddle-steamers and the shrouds of water-wheels, and was once the preferred material for gunpowder charcoal until supply constraints emerged. Beyond its industrial utility, the willow offers numerous ecological benefits: it stabilizes riverbanks, provides nectar for bees, yields clean-burning firewood, aids in draining marshy soils, and its leaves serve as fodder for cattle.
Its bark, rich in salicin, furnishes a traditional remedy for fever and ague, common ailments in the damp habitats where willows flourish. Both the bark and leaves possess astringent properties, and the bark of many species is suitable for tanning leather. In regions such as Norway and Russia, tanners historically favoured willow over oak, a practice believed to contribute to the distinctive characteristics of Russian leather.

10/05/2026

This guy down the road from me has built his own scaffolding 🤯🤯🤯

10/05/2026

Trying to figure out the best way to run cables through this load-bearing beam. I’d like to drill it, but I’m a bit cautious since it’s a main structural member, especially compared to the nearby joists where I’d normally stick to the 1/3 rule.
What would you guys do here?

10/05/2026

Paid a guy $1,300 to pour a 9x16 patio slab. Now I’m second-guessing the prep work—doesn’t look like the dirt was fully leveled, and I don’t see any gravel, sand, or rebar. Looks like quick-crete was poured right over soil.
It’s been a week and the surface already has uneven “ripples” instead of a flat finish.
What would you do in this situation?

10/05/2026

Taking advantage of the weather to get the framing up for the new [shed/addition]. It's starting to take shape, and my back is starting to feel it. Can't wait to get the roof on this!

09/05/2026

Found in the Backyard of an old house. What secrets could this be hiding?

09/05/2026

Old house mystery. What is this? Located in the far backyard of an older farm house.

09/05/2026

It’s completely normal to feel a bit of "sticker shock" when a $2,500 project looks more like a DIY Sunday afternoon than a professional upgrade. Pressure-treated (PT) lumber is notorious for looking a bit "raw" initially, but there’s a line between natural wood characteristics and sloppy craftsmanship.
Here is a breakdown of whether you should be worried or if this is just the "ugly duckling" phase of deck building.
---
# # # 1. The "Treated Lumber" Reality Check
The contractor isn't entirely wrong about the wood needing to dry. Pressure-treated wood is saturated with chemical preservatives, making it heavy, "wet," and often slightly green or gray.
* **The Drying Process:** As it dries (usually 2–6 months), the wood shrinks slightly, the grain settles, and the color levels out.
* **The Finish:** You generally **cannot** stain or paint PT wood immediately because the moisture will push the finish right off. It *has* to look unfinished for a while.
# # # 2. Red Flags vs. Standard Practice
While the material is basic, the **labor** shouldn’t be. Here is how to tell if you got what you paid for:
| Feature | Standard Professional Work | Potential Red Flag |
| :--- | :--- | :--- |
| **Cuts** | Clean, square, and flush. | Jagged edges, gaps in joints, or over-cuts. |
| **Fasteners** | Driven flush; consistent pattern. | Screws sticking out or wood splitting at the ends. |
| **Stringers** | Evenly spaced and structurally sound. | Steps that feel "spongy" or uneven heights. |
| **Sanding** | Handrails should be smooth to the touch. | Excessive splinters on touchpoints. |
# # # 3. Is $2,500 Reasonable?
In the current market, $2,500 for a set of back steps (including demolition of old ones, materials, hauling, and labor) is actually on the **lower to mid-range** side for professional work.
> **The Math:** Once you factor in the cost of high-quality deck screws, concrete footings, and today’s lumber prices, the contractor is likely walking away with about $1,500–$1,000 for labor. For a 1–2 day job, that’s standard for a licensed and insured pro.
# # # What You Should Do Now
1. **Check for Safety:** If the steps are sturdy and the measurements are consistent (each step is the same height), the "bones" are likely fine.
2. **Inspect the Railing:** This is where "basic" often turns into "sloppy." If the handrail is rough enough to give you a splinter, ask them to do a quick pass with a sander.
3. **Hold the Final Payment:** If you haven't paid the full amount, tell them you’d like the rough ends trimmed or sanded before you close out the bill.
**Does the wood actually look damaged (split/warped), or is it mostly just the "hairy" texture of the lumber that's bothering you?*

09/05/2026

Homeowner is refusing to pay me for these footers. She thinks this is unsafe and I told her there is absolutely no problems bc 90% of the beam is touching concrete. I told her I’d post the picture so she could see all the comments of all the professionals that look up to me saying that it is 1000000% safe. 💪🏻

09/05/2026

The Moses Wells House in South Windsor, Connecticut, around the late 1930s and 2025. There have been a number of different estimated construction dates for this house, raging from the implausibly early date of 1635 all the way up to 1780. It is possible that a portion of the house might date back to the 1600s, but otherwise the rest of the house is architecturally consistent with the late 1700s, so the 1780 date is probably the most likely.
By the time the first photo was taken, the house had been altered with modern windows, a porch on the right side, and a portico over the front door. These alterations were later removed, and the house was restored to its 18th century appearance, including the installation of 12-over-12 windows.
Historic image courtesy of the Connecticut State Library.

07/05/2026

I walked through the house a few weeks ago and noticed some bubbling in the floors and the corners coming up on some of the pieces. I asked them to replace the defective boards and they agreed. Went to the house today and I'm guessing these are the new boards (haven't had confirmation yet) but there are more bubbles in the assumingly new boards than there were before. What would cause this? This is Mohawk Revwood laminate flooring. I'm thinking either poor installation or water damage... and I'm hoping it isn't the latter. Please be easy on me, I'm new to all this.

Endereço

1837 N Thornton Road, Casa Grande, AZ
Campina Grande, PB
85122

Site

http://garrettsantiago.com/

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