02/02/2026
Magical Mystery Tour
(Nimbin-New England, 1987)
Well, I am on a strange and magical Mystery Tour (a Beatles song, remember?)
It was a long time ago that I first heard that song: the Beatles, the 60's and all that.
It surprises me, that these 14, 15, 16 year old kids
Still sing Beatles songs, like I did, 25 years ago.
Magic, yes, mystery, yes: though at this moment,
It's still just a teacher and a parent taking 15 adolescents on a 9 day school excursion:
A hired mini-bus,
Jammed to the gunwales with provisions; guitars,
Fantales, tents, black billy-cans,
Towels, tapes, cameras, sketch-pads, walking boots, ideals, hopes and sunburn cream.
Just the usual camping trip paraphernalia.
We are going to places that are still just names, dots on a two-dimensional map:
Ebor. Thungutti. New England National Park.
Point Lookout. Lyrebird Walk. Cathedral Rock.
Lucifer's Thumb. Guy Fawkes River. Dalmorten.
Now we will see how the map swells and grows,
Becomes contours, folds, real places, with real bull ants, real firewood,
And real hailstorms to flood us out of our tents.
We are two dimensional to each other, too.
But as the days go by, my companions grow,
Becoming real people to me, shedding real tears,
Laughing, helping each other, speaking truths
About Life, the Universe, and Everything.
Imperceptibly, the picture comes into focus. There's Violet, amazingly Clara Bow. Pouting lip, a curl of cheeky blond hair to peer under.
Violet, ultra Violet.
She reminds me of my early morning childhood when enthralled, I watched a cicada emerge: Its brown, lacquered back split, and the delicate, gauzy creature within
Released itself, to quiver and fly strongly into the sun.
And Coco. With her private self. Smooth honey-brown plait,
Glossy as a bird's wing, curves down her smooth back.
My daughter, and my friend.
A cake-giver, a cup of tea maker,
And always with comfort, my sweet little woman.
Carissa Clarissa. Those bold, strong eyes and mouth. Freckles. I tell her that I've seen her elsewhere: a park in Florence, a rich Palazzo,
A great, voluptuous, swirling Titian.
She looks amused, a somewhat startled; and points to a catfish
That jumps suddenly in a still pool.
There's Tanya. Poised like a gazelle, her leg curled elegantly round the shovel,
Leaning and reading her exquisite verse about sacred rocks and waterfalls.
Her hair like pale snow grass. And I have to tell you about Cara: that special, crystal mind
Now focussing like a ray gun (look out! Everyone duck!)
Or scattering bright light, thinking deeply.
But this is enough of the credits. Now the movie.
Fragments. I borrow the word from Coco.
Across the strongly flowing river, bellbirds are singing from the hillside;
Bells so pure and clear, that I only sometimes hear them.
They are temple bells ringing,
Drawing down to us with their praise the strength and harmony that is ours if we need it,
In this temple valley dedicated to warm, sweet wind,
To gold speckles in river sand, to plovers calling,
To azure kingfishers dipping into the shimmering river skin;
To round, clashing basalt pebbles, that grumble and gnash at my sensible work boots
(How glad I am that I brought them).
And also in this valley is my warm, dear and much beloved friend.
There he is, sitting, writing, like me, on the edge of our wrinkled river,
Now mirroring the afternoon blue sky: glittering ripples now gliding over green.
Our river rages here. Its tumultuous and muscular flood hurls those hard stones,
Battering and clattering, honing and polishing,
Until the boulders are as smooth and sculptured as a Michaelangelo,
Like his unfinished statues, emerging from the stone,
And then, frozen in their sorrow and strength, they pause, half grown from marble.
So. Our grey rocks here, once spitting, boiling rock,
Are now Michaelangelos, carved over thousands of floods,
Shaped and smoothed, curved and weathered,
Mysterious faces peering out from stone.
Wood and stone. Cathedral Rock. Steve walked before.
Strong brown legs for me to follow.
His keen head turning, looking at flying buttresses of rock,
Great tumbled heaps of sugar lumps, giant's marbles emptied out.
The Giant has left her marbles and gone home.
Now what can I say about this ancient, secret, astounding place?
I followed behind you, Steve. Unerringly, silently, alertly,
Like your long line of boy ancestors, you climb this cool granite:
We see a faint and glittering track, pinkly worn on grey stone;
Corners smoothed by thousands of footsteps, over how many thousand years?
So under the dim rock tunnel we duck.
This way up.
I could stay here for hours in this dream landscape, this cool ravine dripping with moss;
Weathered, twisted ti-trees: fantasy landscape. Spirit world. We are hushed, thrilled.
And then, suddenly, some chains on smooth rock, to take us to the top.
Ah!
That curved, airy, voluptuous rock!
We are sentinels on the heads of ponderous monoliths:
Old people, ancient, thoughtful giants, grey as elephants,
Pink glittering, quietly and steadily peering out across an airy gap of valley,
Across to the folded, tumbled, monolithic thinkers on the other side.
These rocks speak to us, but their thoughts are so slow
That we quick little sparks of life cannot hear them. We can't hear the trees either, Though tree thoughts are to stone thoughts
Only a flash of green light.
Even the Nothofagus Moorei, Antarctic Beech,
Brooding and dreaming below the whispering cliffs of the Lyrebird Trail
Have thousands of years only of memory,
And the sentinels have been watching those powder blue skies,
Those wrinkled folds of dreaming peaks, for so long
That they seem to us to have always been there.
Those beeches! How they speak to me of long, slow, dripping ages:
We stand transfixed by the snoring, serious croaking of the sphagnum frog,
Pronouncing, in his deep and profound bass voice A few words only.
Meditatively croaking behind his lace curtain of water.
Oh those diamond drops. Rainbow falls.
With reverence, and also with thirst, we taste, delighted,
The pure and living water that filters down over striated and fissured rock,
Through sponges of vivid moss,
And whispers smooth as silk down steps and stairs of stone.
All is exquisite. Every vision is perfect. That weeping rock. That crimson leaf. That velvet moss.
That slow cascade of tree root, so long clasping and grasping hard granite,
That root and stone seem one, layered with moss and lichen.
Tree and moss slowly, slowly devour stone. And a bridge, more perfect than any Japanese garden,
Takes us across a pure creek (quick, another sip!)
And ferns, curled in love-heart fiddle heads, branching, delicate as a breath.
Coco and Kylie and I pause, walk, exclaim, stare, touch, smell,
And taste sweet water from moss sponge;
Amazed, dumbfounded at being in this eternal forest.
I look at the forest, and look at the girls looking at the forest.
We smile enchanted smiles, and wonder at alt this grace.
Even the path is a work of art.
It gracefully and harmoniously follows some sacred trail, ancient beyond thought.
Careful steps cut in fallen giants, stairs that are mossy tree trunks.
How can I describe it? Words by themselves can't capture that winding path
Poised between today and millennia ago,
Flying like an airy bridge between me,
And times long ago.
The plateau.
On this plateau, has to have been sacred of sacred places,
What thoughts we ail had, gazing into the azure wind and distance.
Stripy lizards flick in and out of their hot crevices.
Bonsai trees writhe in sinuous wooden arabesques,
Battered by the cool clear winds that flow over this glassy peak.
Everywhere ritual and singing and thought have blended with stone.
They still echo with ceremony.
And in the midst of magical walks, where we climb to places so beautiful
That they seem to belong to another age or time,
We walk also on voyages of exploration within ourselves.
All around us in these eternal, internal journeys
Are towering cliffs, mist veils drifting, primeval forests alive with mystery.
We find our way within ourselves,
Recognising with joy or fear, in some mossy, shadowed ravine
Our true self. And around camp fires, their faces glowing with flame and joy,
These children, or women and men
Make a circle, heal each other, and generally have a good time,
Giggling like fools, rolling around, shouting and chanting together,
So that their clear voices echo off the darkness of cliff across the swift and silken river.
Dawn at Dalmorten.
I wash in the warm, clear river.
No one sees. They are all asleep.
A water hen speaks a syllable of the true name of things,
And mist veils the water.
Barry snores in his green tent. The children sleep. Their faces are peaceful, their sleeping bags damp.
Last night, the stars were their ceiling. There's Coco, her glasses propped carefully against her torch.
Kylie's nose, Shelley in her bag which is dearly still damp.
Kim, Carissa and Nick, wandering, adrift in the cloudy land of dreams.
I see that Steve guards them, asleep in his brown Superdown.
We seem charmed, blessed with protection,
In spite of the dangerous and precipitous land through which we've passed-
The thrilling crevasses, the edges of rock luring us to the edge of the cloudy world-
The hailstorm, dumping piles and drifts of wedding icing,
Freezing our feet, soaking our sleeping bags, our food, our games of Trivial Pursuit....
Wet, cold and misty morning at Thungutti,
Where our discomfort at wet socks, wet sweaters,
Wet blankets, and revoltingly wet, squishy sneakers,
Can be set against some true delights.
A kangaroo, graciously accepting bread from Kylie,
And even allowing us to scratch its warm and furry chest;
And endless cups of tea, made, oh joy of joys, with sweetened condensed milk:
Made in a wet tent, surrounded with sodden cardboard boxes.
A morning sitting in the bus, cheering myself by reading
Of r***d Cambodia, gutted Vietnam, despoiled Palestine:
Corruption, greed, viciousness, malice, vile stupidity,
Whose ragged, stinking cloak threatens with its filthy edges even this exquisite, misty clearing:
Threatens the sweet childhood of our precious children, since war is war on children. I'm glad I came, if only to read Pilger's "Heroes", in surrounding that belong to dreams.
So we sat on the damp bus. Barry, loaded down with care, and a wet jacket, drove us up on a trip which we couldn't see,
(The windows weeping with rain and steam),
Shelley, Coco, Violet and I cuddled together on the back seat,
Shared our dampness and warmth, and while we didn't dry,
At least shared comfort, and cups of tea.
It was a three girl morning, I cuddled all three, and thought how sweet small delights become
When all else is stripped away. When a warm bed, a meal with friends,
Regain their power to delight.
I guess we're all soft; the richest, healthiest children who have ever been.
We forget how rich we are, and how strong we are, when adversity challenges us.
And then we know again how only a few things really remain important.
A baby knows that, needing to know nothing else.
And that's how the healing process goes for you children
Who know love and pain no less than anyone, finding that strength and comfort and joy
Are all the sweeter for being shared;
Honing your skills against the dark need, the fearsome tests
That wait, monolithic and still,
Signposting your future life.
Into that vast and misty landscape of the future
We all peer, aloft on perilous mountains, gazing into uncharted gorges and trails, (National Parks and Wildlife not yet having had the time
To carve their neat signs to direct our timid feet.)
Some of you have already drawn your sketch maps of the future.
Shelley, for instance, who seems, like Theseus,
To be holding fast to that warm woollen thread,
That someone who loves her has helped to weave,
And has pressed into her hand to guide her.
She, like us all, has a Minotaur to face at the end of the Maze.
But she also has that thread held fast.
Emotional firestorms, ice storms and wet sleeping bags did not bow this quiet warrior.
She is fragile as a little bird. But still I see the strength of the girl-woman,
Who stoically bears physical pain, and anguish too,
And while packing all of that away in her inner self,
Still gives comfort to those around:
Like massage in the fire warmth of Tom's Bushwalkers' Hut,
While steaming blankets and clothes hung on clever lines made of boot laces
Festooned our warm refuge like Christmas decorations,
In celebration of fire light, a good meal, hot showers, and clean hair.
Now Jenny has joined me.
Serenely, she eats her muesli. Jenny and I walked the high peaks together.
She, overwhelmed with her first experience
Of vast and empty spaces, the forbidding cliffs,
The dangerous crevasses threatening unwary climbers; unfamiliar territory.
So we scrambled down together, and held hands for comfort, on the dangerous bits.
Then, we nature rambled, discovering shining quartz,
Twisted and interesting twigs, tiny orchids as pretty as jewels,
Jenny, a shy, quiet and beautiful girl,
Amazed and overwhelmed by love and friendship, stumbling, startled, into unknown territory,
And looking back over cloudy vistas, to see her life begin to make sense,
And to find useful items in her life's baggage, like quiet strength, that will be useful, later.
She doesn't say much; her few words, like those rare and secret orchids,
Surprise with their harmony and grace.
And who could forget Angie, our Angela, well named. I've seen her before, too. A naughty, smiling cherub, flicking its wings,
Playing pranks on some pompous fool,
Laughing down the centuries, from some frescoed wail.
Now I have it. The Laughing Warrior of Verona. I have a postcard to prove it.
And climbing those monstrous hills, screaming like a sulphur crested cockatoo, exuberant,
Ready to float off the cliffs like a winged seed;
And Luke, bounding from rock to rock in his guise of boy,
Though really, it's quite clear he should have cloven hooves.
Pan, Satyr or mountain goat, playing his Pan pipes on the navel of the world:
Half pure mad boy energy, half visionary, writing poetry in his head,
Pointing high tech cameras and videos at visions that belong to dreams.
As they floated over the rocks like helium balloons,
I nervously looked for a string to grab,
Thinking we would lose them entirely.
And this, for me, is pure self-indulgence. Clarissa's dimpled river swishes by, rushing clear as glass over pale stones.
There are no floors to sweep while camping,
No business to worry about, no phones, only bell birds ringing.
Sometimes you meet people who clearly come from somewhere and sometime else:
Maybe from Venus, maybe from millennia past or future.
Kylie's one like that, so beautiful, that it's enough for her just to stand about laughing
To justify her own existence, and give us pleasure just looking.
As the tapestry in my mind fades and dissolves,
I still see her; outrageously funny, shooting Steve with a slimy eel,
Then wrapping it round his neck. (We ate the eel later for breakfast. It was delicious.)
Kylie. Standing, poised as a model in Vogue, Her jungle green hat and raggedy blanket worn with naive and casual grace,
Then pirating off down the rapids on her air bed, claiming rock islands,
Inventing fantasies as huge and absurd as the cumulus clouds that loom over this valley.
And Rachael. You can look at her, try to capture her essence; but she's like a sandpiper,
Forever elusive, forever moving, always just out of reach.
Looking at this golden girl is like staring into sunlight reflected off wet rocks and sand,
Confusing you: which prism of light is reflection, and which is girl?
Now. When that pallid and inimical mirror (whose distorting images peer back at you,
From television, shop windows, glossy, screaming magazines),
Confusing you, with its ferocious and distorting message:
You can, if you choose, hold as a talisman the reflection of yourself
That you once saw in someone's eyes: the true picture of your true self,
Translucent, innocent, shimmering.
Then, we let our mask drop, or peered timidly round its edge.
For you children, that’s easier,
The mask you learn to make,
To protect yourself from harm
Becomes, when you’re older, a mask-face;
That out of habit or fear,
Falls only in anguish or ecstasy.
You beautiful, inspired, and inspiring children
Who, as you cross the threshold between childhood,
And growing up to be like us:
Discover that you already possess gifts,
Beyond naming or price,
That if acknowledged, retained and nurtured
Will allow us to survive.